Chamonix

Riding high in Chamonix

Hi Everybody:

November and December have brought cold temperatures and early darkness to Lyon, and holiday decorations are now going up around the neighborhood.  In general, I would say that France displays a more subtle show of holiday decor than we are used to in the States, but it's still plenty enough to get the kids (and me) excited about the season.

Late night Iced-Tea for Cora and Cold Beer for me

The French School calendar is different than the US one, in that kids here attend classes from September 1st through July 7.  This might seem like a long school year, but it is broken up nicely with two-week vacations, occurring just about every six weeks.  These frequent holidays always seem like they are just around the bend, and for the students and teachers they are a welcome respite.

Daphne with hot chocolate in Chamonix

The French and Suisse Alps from Chamonix

The village square 

During their two-week break in mid-October, we took a trip to the beautiful village of Chamonix, which is nestled in a valley at the foot of Mt Blanc, and surrounded by the French Alps.

Mt. Blanc and its massive glacier, which seems to spill down the side

Cora ponders...

Like the city of Annecy (from previous posts), Chamonix lays in the mountainous Haute-Savoie region of southeastern France, and celebrates alpine culture through its hard cheeses, mountain hiking and overall scenic beauty.  

We rented a really good Air BnB (one of the nicest we've yet nabbed) in the center of the village, and that gave us a perfect base during our stay.   

Our terrace in Chamonix offered dry wood for the fireplace, and a great place for pictures...

High on our list was taking the Téléférique cable-car which departs from the village , makes its first stop at Aiguille du Midi, continues up to the top of Mt Blanc, and then further across the mountains into Northern Italy.  The ride is STEEP, and they pack the riders, sardine-like, into the small car which rises quickly up the slopes.  It's a beautiful trip, even if slightly hair-raising, and when we arrived mid-way and saw the breathtaking views (in every direction), even Cora agreed that it was worth the white-knuckles.  It's truly worth checking out the website, here: http://www.chamonix.com/telepherique-de-l-aiguille-du-midi,48-156953,en.html

That's me, in the window, clutching the railing.

The one building on the side of Aiguille du Midi.  It's a small cafe with a few souvenirs.

We spent a couple of hours hiking and exploring in what feels like another world high above the village.  There are a few wooden signs, which point hikers in general directions, but you're pretty much on your own up there, and the kids loved that feeling of freedom.  Living in the middle of a large city as we do has many advantages, but a big back yard isn't one of them, and our three were so happy to have that much space to explore.

Cora's delight at being out of the cable car at last...

Leo decided that his new favorite sport is "Mountaineering" and Katherine discovered that one can indeed hike with a purse.  Cora discovered that hot chocolate can cure a fear of heights.  Daphne discovered that I really know what I'm talking about when I say, "Yes, I do think that you'll have a harder time hiking in the alps with no mittens, Daphne." (I was right.) And I discovered a quiet (and off the path) mountain lake and got all philosophical about it, and its beauty, until Daphne reminded me that there were only two remaining cable rides down the mountainside that afternoon, and we'd be stuck outside if we didn't get moving. (She was right).

Hiking in style...

This section was a little nerve wracking.  Not that I let Leo's slipping on the ice get in the way of a good photo.

Our mountain lake

Behind this rock, Cora's feet are dangling over the village of Chamonix far below.

We also found a great mountaineering and geological museum in Chamonix, and heard a nice concert of baroque instrumental music in the church downtown.  

And yes, we did eat Fondue one time, which takes care of that desire for a good couple of years.  In general, Alpine food is pretty heavy stuff, so we ate like mountain people only that one afternoon.

Fondue: Alpine cheese and White wine all melted together.

Those cakes are called "little Mt. Blancs"

Leo looking to ride the cog-rail

Morning coffee in the apartment

Back In Lyon, things have been fine, with the kids working hard in school, with all of the time and attention that requires.  Katherine continues to like her job down the street at the silk boutique, and I've been traveling out to Western France (Vendée region) each weekend for Christmas programs at a beautiful and interesting medieval park.  I've met stellar new colleagues and am performing early French musique de Noël.  Really festive.  

I think I look just like Poldark in my costume for this gig.  

This years "Sapin de Noël"

Love these kids!

This is what happens when you're six and you let your sister "make you up like Santa..."

Daphne is now swimming with the Lyon city swim club (named The Lions, no surprise), and Cora has begun lute lessons (HER idea, I did not force this....although I am delighted:). And Leo is making lots of new friends in school, learning to read and spell, engineering expert forts all over the apartment, and coming to terms with the realization that he'll begin piano lessons again after Christmas.  

Very cool way to eat Baba Rhum: the Rum is actually in a little squeeze bottle that you launch into the cake with your fingers.

Macaroon Christmas Tree??

We will spend our Christmas again in Lyon, and will be sending lots of love and good wishes to you all.  As I'm traversing east to west via train this month, I will post some more pictures of what we're all experiencing here in this wonderful time of the year.

Lots of love from us all,

Aaron