Sunday, August 30, 2015

No Troubles with Traboules

Hi, Guys:

We've been exploring and have lots to share.  My name is Aaron, and I'll be your tour guide for today.

It's Sunday, and the town is very sleepy.  We woke up late and listened to a concert of church bells which rang out for a long time, just after 10:00am.  Our neighborhood, Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon), sits at the base of a large hill called Fourviere.  Fourviere is known as "the hill that prays" due to the many churches at its base, along its slopes and, notably, a big one up on top: The Basilica of Notre-Dame Fourviere.

The Basilica above, our neighborhood beneath.

This Basilica and its grounds are accessed either by foot (major steps) or by one of two funiculars which originate near the Vieux Lyon metro stop.  They are the two oldest and active funicular lines in the world. (Probably best not to keep that particular tidbit in your head as you board).  We haven't been up there yet, but the Basilica looks stunning from below, and it's a landmark that the kids use now, to remember where our neighborhood lies within the city of Lyon.  Just to the side of the basilica is a mini-Eiffel tower. You can see them from all over.



The Basilica from the river...

We've begun to explore our neighborhood and its beauty and history.  Due to the narrow nature of the streets, most are pedestrian only, and they remind me irresistibly of Diagon alley, which makes me love it even more.






The neighborhood covers 24 hectares (about 60 acres) along the banks of the Saone river, and was established in the 15th and 16th centuries.  Some of the things we've found that make Vieux Lyon so interesting are the presence of its winding narrow streets, its church squares with public fountains, and its wonderful hidden passageways called, "Traboules."


Into the Traboule...

Traboules are ancient, covered passageways which lead from one street to the next through the corridors of neighborhood buildings.  We've learned that they were originally built to bring water or goods through the (complicated) streets of Vieux Lyon, or to connect the streets underneath the buildings.  Now, they generally lead to the inner courtyards of the dwellings all over the neighborhood.



Looking up from an inner courtyard

As you wander the streets, you can push on any door you see.  Many, like ours, are private and locked.  But, some will push open and you can wander in and explore the architectural treasures within.  Long hallways, spiral staircases, covered archways, etc.  I think it's really, really fun to look for them, and the kids absolutely love them.



Searching for Traboules can make you hungry. 



Searching for them is like a daily treasure hunt.  There are over 50 publicly accessible traboules in our neighborhood alone, and lots on the other large hill in Lyon, Croix Rousse.  


Behind the girls is the exposed courtyard accessed by a nice Traboule
This is not a Traboule.  This is some really great bread that we ate this week.

We've also come to know the square at St. Jean, which is another large church near our subway stop.  It has a beautiful facade and a big fountain where lots of folks gather during the day and evening.  It is our new 'watering hole' which the kids make use of each time we pass.


The Cathedral of St. Jean

The "watering hole"
 

The Basilica from the square at St. Jean

That's a little walk around our neighborhood.  Or, as much as we've learned of it in five days:)


The 117 steps which make up our 'street'

Lots of love to you all.  The kids start school on Tuesday.  Will post sometime after that.

A

1 comment:

  1. Lovely! So fun to explore it vicariously with you guys .

    ReplyDelete