No Troubles with Traboules

Hi, Guys:

We've been exploring and have lots to share.  My name is Aaron, and I'll be your tour guide for today.

It's Sunday, and the town is very sleepy.  We woke up late and listened to a concert of church bells which rang out for a long time, just after 10:00am.  Our neighborhood, Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon), sits at the base of a large hill called Fourviere.  Fourviere is known as "the hill that prays" due to the many churches at its base, along its slopes and, notably, a big one up on top: The Basilica of Notre-Dame Fourviere.

The Basilica above, our neighborhood beneath.

This Basilica and its grounds are accessed either by foot (major steps) or by one of two funiculars which originate near the Vieux Lyon metro stop.  They are the two oldest and active funicular lines in the world. (Probably best not to keep that particular tidbit in your head as you board).  We haven't been up there yet, but the Basilica looks stunning from below, and it's a landmark that the kids use now, to remember where our neighborhood lies within the city of Lyon.  Just to the side of the basilica is a mini-Eiffel tower. You can see them from all over.

The Basilica from the river...

We've begun to explore our neighborhood and its beauty and history.  Due to the narrow nature of the streets, most are pedestrian only, and they remind me irresistibly of Diagon alley, which makes me love it even more.

The neighborhood covers 24 hectares (about 60 acres) along the banks of the Saone river, and was established in the 15th and 16th centuries.  Some of the things we've found that make Vieux Lyon so interesting are the presence of its winding narrow streets, its church squares with public fountains, and its wonderful hidden passageways called, "Traboules."

Into the Traboule...

Traboules are ancient, covered passageways which lead from one street to the next through the corridors of neighborhood buildings.  We've learned that they were originally built to bring water or goods through the (complicated) streets of Vieux Lyon, or to connect the streets underneath the buildings.  Now, they generally lead to the inner courtyards of the dwellings all over the neighborhood.

Looking up from an inner courtyard

As you wander the streets, you can push on any door you see.  Many, like ours, are private and locked.  But, some will push open and you can wander in and explore the architectural treasures within.  Long hallways, spiral staircases, covered archways, etc.  I think it's really, really fun to look for them, and the kids absolutely love them.

Searching for Traboules can make you hungry. 

Searching for them is like a daily treasure hunt.  There are over 50 publicly accessible traboules in our neighborhood alone, and lots on the other large hill in Lyon, Croix Rousse.  

Behind the girls is the exposed courtyard accessed by a nice Traboule

This is not a Traboule.  This is some really great bread that we ate this week.

We've also come to know the square at St. Jean, which is another large church near our subway stop.  It has a beautiful facade and a big fountain where lots of folks gather during the day and evening.  It is our new 'watering hole' which the kids make use of each time we pass.

The Cathedral of St. Jean

The "watering hole"

 

The Basilica from the square at St. Jean

That's a little walk around our neighborhood.  Or, as much as we've learned of it in five days:)

The 117 steps which make up our 'street'

Lots of love to you all.  The kids start school on Tuesday.  Will post sometime after that.

A

Over the Pond

Hi, folks:

I've been feeling the urge to post some pictures since the moment we arrived in France, but we've been all out since we touched down here on Sunday afternoon.  The trip went very smoothly, and the kids did great.  Seriously, this is a rock-star team.  They handled the flights beautifully (thanks in part to truly outstanding inflight entertainment, courtesy of Iceland Air).

Ready for take-off

Stephanie and Steve were kind enough to host us for the week leading up to the departure, and to drop us at Logan Airport, and we managed all the luggage about as well as we could have.  The five of us were a bit of a sight, pushing two carts heaped with suitcases through the airport, but we made it through just fine; even Leo with his 'Thomas the Train rolling luggage.'

Leo watching for our flight announcement in Iceland

We made one stop in Iceland for about 90 minutes, and then on to Paris, where we were met at the door by one of my dearest friends, Elisa.  We walked out of the baggage/customs door and there she was, holding high a sign that said 'Daphne, Cora and Leo.' That was a welcome sight, and I very acutely felt the relief of having finally arrived, after all the planning and work that has gone into this move.

Elisa and Katherine lead the way to the taxi in Paris

Elisa has been a saving grace to us here.  She has lived in Paris for around 15 years now, and is helping us navigate what I am now calling 'French Pledge Week.'  This entails meeting with personal bankers, insurance agents, city hall administrators, mobile phone providers, etc.  More about 'Pledge Week' in the next few posts....

From the window of our Air B and B (which reeked of cigarette smoke, but hey, look at this view!)

We spent two days in Paris attending to some of these appointments, but also walking the streets of this spectacular city.  The kids, still tired from the flight, were impressed with the food and VERY impressed by the sight of the Eiffel Tower :)

Best playground ever!  Right on the grounds of Notre Dame Cathedral... 

Daphne's favorite sight in Paris

St. Genevieve

Rainbow over the Seine River

We enjoyed great meals and terrific time with Elisa, and then, before we knew it, it was Tuesday afternoon and she heroically assisted us in dragging our bags from our Air BnB to the train station, where we boarded a two-hour, high speed (200 mph!) train south, through Burgundy and into our new city of Lyon.

200 miles per hour, Leo!!

We were really dragging by the time we pulled into the city, but the sight of it truly took my breath away.  I had no idea how beautiful a place it would be.  Our landlord met us at the station and helped us haul our bags to a taxi.

When we arrived at our new apartment, I was amazed at the surroundings.  We are in Vieux (Old) Lyon, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the largest Renaissance area in France.  More on that later, but it's important to put it out there, because when the taxi dropped us off at our door, we realized that the next step in our journey was carrying each bag (nearly 50 lbs) up four flights of a 15th century circular, stone staircase.  Yes, my back survived it.  It think my endorphins saved me.  Again, more on this soon.

The girls, exhausted after climbing our new steps

Looking up at our apartment from the courtyard beneath (Katherine is waving from the window). 

Our street, Montee du Change

I'm attaching a few pictures of our new neighborhood here, and will post again about our apartment, neighborhood and what we've been doing for our first few days when I have a bit more clarity.

But, long story made short:

• Long trip.  
• Kids have been excited, exhausted and trusting.  
• Elisa is invaluable as a friend and as an advocate for us. 
• Lyon has surprised us with its history and incredible beauty, already.  
• We have major stairs now, and we're tired.
• We're happy that we decided to do this.

Moon over Lyon, day one.

Au revoir!

At the airport, and offf we go!  We'll send a post from France.

What we're bringing