Tuesday, February 23, 2016

Pérouges

Hi, all:

Just a quick post, tonight.  We returned from a trip to Barcelona, yesterday, and there will be an extensive post on that one coming sooner or later.

Valentine's Day Breakfast, French-Style

Right before we headed south to Spain, we spent a really wonderful afternoon with some new friends just east of Lyon.  We met them through a terrific organization called Lyon International (http://www.lyon-international.org/?lang=en).  You might remember that Lyon International sponsored our trip to the Beaujolais region back in October.

Map of the Medieval Town of Pérouges

Walking the streets of Pérouges

Lyon International also offers a unique opportunity: an afternoon or evening spent with a French family to get better acquainted with the area, share a meal, or just practice some French.  It's a lovely thing to do, and after our trip with them in October, I signed us up.

Shortly after, we were contacted by our new friends, who offered to have us to their place for afternoon crêpes and waffles (gaufres) for goûter, and also for a trip to the famous medieval walled town of Pérouges.


The walls of the church are part of the original defense of the city


"Another medieval village, Dad?"




Pérouges is still inhabited by around 40 people year-round, and even boasts a few small businesses and a school (!).  We approached it by car, which is nice because even in the distance, one can see it perched up on top of a hill, overlooking the Ain river valley.

The French Alps from the town of Pérouges

One of the doors of the city wall


Leo wants this car

Pérouges dates back beyond the 11th century, and is today a tourist destination, but was for centuries inhabited by craftsmen.  The town is in beautiful condition and under constant preservation by the society which bears its name.



The light inside of the Pérouges chapel




The kids loved running through the streets (February is a great time to visit, because there are so few people there) and finding medieval nooks and crannies to hide inside and jump out of.  They are really into the "Merlin" T.V. series right now, and they had an up-close experience of a town in which Merlin would have been right at home.

We sampled the famous Galettes de Pérouges, which are decedent but simple treats with caramelized sugar and butter covering the top of a galette.

Galette de Pérouges







The streets are all made of small stones from the Ain river bed.  Still today, they are replaced out of the Ain.  Amazing.

A day-trip to Pérouges is a must when visiting Lyon, but bring your tennis shoes.  High heels are not a good idea in a medieval city...








Daphne and Leo maintaining balance on the street stones...






After our wanderings through the village, we headed back for our afternoon of goodies and conversation.  The French are experts in goodies and conversation.  We were plied with crêpes, gaufres, coffee, homemade preserves of every kind and some hard cider from Normandy.

Crêpe Lessons

The long wait...




The afternoon hard cider is a blessing and a curse.  It gets the French language flowing, but the grammar goes out the window...

We have been so lucky to meet such wonderful, welcoming people here in France.  As I type this, Kat and the kids are out with these friends again, this time at the movies.





À votre santé,

Aaron

Thursday, February 11, 2016

The Musical Fruit


Hello, all!

We had a mild January here in Lyon, with high temperatures around 50 degrees fahrenheit all month long.  I can deal with that, nicely.  

Lyon winters bring a beautiful and giant Ferris Wheel to the Place Bellecour, which is a short walk from our neighborhood.  I don't know why it is here just in the winter, but it's now a well-established tradition, and many people seem to 'know' the couple who own it and bring it to Lyon each year. 

Bellecour is continually full of people, and many of them are snapping photos of this towering sight.


The Ferris Wheel at Place Bellecour

Daphne, Leo and Katherine decided to take a spin on this wheel of fortune recently.  They loved it.

Cora decided that she would prefer the view from the ground, so I stuck with her (though we are thinking of hopping on, another time:)
There are Leo, Daphne and Katherine up at the top!

January also brought new adventures about town, like...

Excursions to the ice-skating rink (Patinoire) with our neighbor (Leo's classmate and close buddy).



The feast of the Epiphany and its well-known "King Cake" (Galette des Rois).  This tasty tradition is great on its own, but the kids love it even more because baked inside each cake is a small, often porcelain toy.  Whichever lucky eater finds the toy (la fève), is the King or Queen for the day, gets to wear a crown and even gets to choose someone to be the royal partner.

Daphne won.  She always wins.  Even back in French school in Maine, she won.  I want to be the King.

Three Galettes des Rois: Brioche, Pomme (Apple) and Marzipan

Leo and a buddy waiting for Galette...

Yours truly with the Queen...again...



Our outdoor market runs all year long and, while it's not exactly brimming with fresh summer fruit and vegetables, the farmers more than make up for their absence with root vegetables, fruit preserves, amazing bread, cheeses, olives & beans, and stand after stand of roasted chicken and potatoes.  One should not visit the outdoor market on an empty stomach...


Daphne will hang upside down for hours if she gets a roasted chicken

Also, the girls have begun Fencing lessons (Escrime).  It's been a great way for them to keep active after school on Tuesdays, meet some more friends and practice a very intriguing sport.  I love going with and watching the practice.  I've never been a "Soccer Dad" but I could be a "Fencing Dad"?

Even in pink pants, Cora is not to be trifled with.  En garde!

Katherine and I are continuing our intensive French Language class, which is going really well. I'm convinced that I'm either getting much more used to the cadence and idioms of French, or that everyone in Lyon has miraculously begun speaking more slowly and clearly, just for me.  I'm hoping for the former.

Speaking of French class...

We had a fun, but difficult assignment, recently.  Our teacher asked each of us to think of a recipe from our home country and translate it into French (for Katherine and me, this also meant translating into Metric).  I immediately thought of a recipe from my Dad, which is affectionately known in our house as:

Grandpa Roger's Famous Baked Beans  

Or, en français:

Célèbres Feves au Lard de Grand-Père Roggie



These beans are out of this world.  Honestly.  They simmer for hours and hours, the house smells incredible and our kids devour them.  They are great the very day you make them but ten times better the next day, and the next...

In the spirit of our French class, I'm including the recipe en français for you all.  Make a French party cooking game of it with your friends!  Two words: Google Translate.

I do NOT promise perfect French grammar, but I do promise perfect beans....


Célèbres Feves au Lard de Grand-Père Roggie**

Les Ingrédients:
  • 1/2 kg haricots blancs (sec)
  • 14 ml frais, râpé gingembre
  • 1 gros oignon
  • 4 gros gousses d’ail (écrasé)
  • 85 g mélasse noire
  • 165 g sucre brun (emballé)
  • 1 frais feuille de laurier
  • 10 ml du sel
  • 28 ml moutarde (sèche)
  • 5 ml poivre noir
  • 5 ml thyme (sèche)
  • 5 ml cumin
  • 5 ml poivre de Cayenne
  • 170 g ketchup du tomate
  • 45 ml syrop d’érable pur
  • 5 ml fumée liquide (optionnel)*
  • 1 jarret de porc (optionnel)*
A picture of Leo helping me make beans nearly four years ago, which was probably the last time we bought salt pork.
This go around, I ran out of brown sugar, but remember: if you have molasses and white sugar, you can make brown sugar!  One tablespoon molasses to one cup of sugar.  Mix up and...
Voila!  Brown Sugar.

Nettoyer, rincer et tremper les haricots la nuit ou vers 8 heures.  Rincer encore, et mettre dans une grande, lourd casserole.  Ajouter tous les autres ingrédients et ajouter d’eau ou boullion à vers 2 cm au dessous les haricots.  


Augmenter votre feu jusqu’a la belle concoction atteint une éboullition sur les bords. Maintenant, mijoter à feu doux. Les haricots sont en train de changer la couleur de la châtaigne.  Ça c’est bon!  

Maintenant, boire un peu de vin, et écouter de la musique baroque sur votre radio.


Les haricots cuire pour entre 8 à 10 heures, parfois plus.  C’est bon, parce qu’ils font votre maison sentir merveilleuse.  Mélanger les haricots chaque heure, et commencer à goûter a le 6eme heure de cuire.  Si ils sont trop sèches, ajouter plus liquid.  Si ils ne sont pas piquante, ajouter plus de Cayenne.  Si ils sont trop durs, continuer à cuire.

Note: Si vous préférez utiliser le four cuire les haricots, régler votre température à 125 dégres. (250 F), et suivre les mêmes directions.

* Le jarret de porc et la fumée liquide sont optionnel, pour les carnivores.  Ces ingrédients ne sont pas indispensable, mais ils font le saveur plus profonde. 

Les haricots avec le porc
Les haricots sans le porc.  Les deux sont bons.


** Grand-Père Roggie est le père d’Aaron


I dream of Beanie...






Racing home for more beans!

Lots of love to you all, and happy Valentine's Day!

Aaron